Steven Klein by Georgina Yates

“I like what’s obscure.”

 

Steven klein
“During his youth, Klein felt haunted by a sense that he didn’t fit in. He took solace in the works of Picasso and Helmut Newton”
The man who shapes fame”
A lot of fashion photographers are very good with women but don’t seem to create the fantasy as well with men. Actually, I think Steven is much better with men than women. There is a very violent and sexual undertone.
— Susan Bright, Curator

Justin Timberlake Arena+ Homme 2001

The Beckhams W Magazine 2007. The same year, Beckham signed a five year contract with US soccer team LA Galaxy.

Klein was the was the first person to take photos which sexualised Beckham. And, to some people’s eyes, homosexualised him
— Tony Chambers Editor, Wallpaper Magazine
He has the power to remake people’s reputations. Those photographs of Beckham made him a fashion face and gave him a cultural significance outside of football for the first time.
— Murray Healy Managing Editor Arena Homme+

Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie: "Domestic Bliss" W Magazine July 2005. Jennifer Aniston filed for divorce in October that year.

He understands that celebrity is a mask you put on. And he strips it away.
— Susan Bright, Curator

The many faces of Brad Pitt Interview Magazine 2012

Madonna: Madonna Unbound W Magazine 2003

Madonna: Future Lovers W Magazine 2006. Also the name of a track on 2005 release Confessions On A Dance Floor, for which Klein took the album cover shot. 

Lady Gaga Alejandro Video 2010

She likes epics. It fits her personality. We combined dance, narrative and attributes of surrealism.
— Steven Klein

Steven Klein's Editorial Early from 2004 - 2015

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LFW: JUDY WU SS15 by Georgina Yates

 When designer Judy Wu visited the ‘Jardim Botânico’ in the city of Rio de Janeiro she found her inspiration for her gorgeous Spring/Summer collection. The idyllic 137-hectare garden is home to some of the most spectacular species of plant life that the world has to offer. Judy Wu’s photographs of flora and fauna set against the Rio sky are transformed into print for her latest collection. Palm tree patterns are meticulously laid out on white, knee-length dresses and cropped jackets. Vibrant flowers are represented by colourful beading that stands out as if it were growing from the garments like grass. Her palette is beautiful too: mint green, salmon pink, rusty beige and bright white. Altogether, Judy Wu’s SS15 collection is as enchanting as the gardens that inspired it.

Words by Georgina Yates / @withgeorgia

Images by Amy Barton / @Amy_R_Barton

LFW: Huishan Zhang AW14 by Georgina Yates

Chinese-born designer Huishan Zhang introduces his stunning AW14 collection with a presentation at The Dorchester Hotel. Zhang is accustomed to displaying his exquisite work in this exhibition setting, being the first Chinese contemporary designer to hold a permanent display in the T.T. Tsui Gallery of London's V&A Museum.
By  choosing to showcase his new work in this manner, the highly detailed nature of his textiles can be fully appreciated. Zhang’s AW14 woman is feminine and effortlessly graceful. Intricate embroidery, lace, velvet, and diamante details feature prominently in the collection and are used in a palette of black, white, pink, blue and metallic gold. A recurring motif is a floral design, which is sewn across sheer black chiffon and white velvet. Floral print, over-the-knee stockings in cream and black feature too, serving to emphasise the feminine appeal of this range.
Stand out pieces are a striking metallic gold oversized coat and a black lace cocktail dress, embroidered with a floral motif, nipped in at the waist and adorned by a glinting diamante belt. The models’ eye make-up is smoky and their hair is down in a natural ‘shabby chic’ style, which again adheres to the ‘effortlessly elegant’ theme. Stood on white boxes in a marble, low-ceiling room and dressed in such ornate lace, the models resemble beautiful china dolls that are to be admired, but not touched.
The collection is breath-taking; and, what’s more, it is extremely wearable. Huishan Zhang’s AW14 collection has left me dreaming of a Zhang garment to call my own.
huishanzhang.com 
@huishanzhang        
Words & Images @withgeorgia
 

LFW: Basharatyan V AW14 by Georgina Yates

Veronica Basharatyan is the talented designer behind the recently established label Basharatyan V which, after a stunning SS14 range, has become a favourite among celebrity circles, including Nicole Scherzinger and influential fashion entrepreneur, Noelle Reno.Veronica’s work is minimalist and clean-cut, yet made subtlety feminine with delicate fabrics. For AW14, Basharatyan looks to Icelandic conservation park Heidmork for inspiration. This location based theme runs clearly and consistently throughout the collection, with a crisp palette of white and pale blue punctuated by bold reds – mimicking how the sun burns in the sky over the icy paradise.
Striking hair and makeup also communicates the Icelandic theme; the blue sparkling lips and matching long spiky nails resemble icicles and the hair is like a towering, snow-capped mountain, with a heavy fringe falling down to the nose. This strange spectacle is accompanied by a live performance from singer Emiliana Torrini whose silky vocals fill the show space, adding another dimension to the snowy arcadia.
Basharatyan’s AW14 collection comprises an assortment of delicately tailored mohair coats in pale blue and bold red, silver maxi dresses in flowing silk and, following on from her successful crop-top of the SS14 collection, cropped cotton shirts. For this range Veronica includes a geyser spring print, which featured in cropped separates and across long dresses.
Each model wears silver heels that match perfectly with the hair and make-up, creating a precise, uniformed feel and a fantastical picture of Heidmork inhabitants. For me, this was a stand-out collection. The concept was expertly conveyed through all aspects of the show from the nail-art to the clothing and delivery. All these elements came together, transporting viewers to Veronica’s fashion ‘Heidmock’ – a idyll populated by beautiful, white-haired people with sparkling lips and impeccable style!

www.basharatyanv.com   

@basharatyanv

Words: @withgeorgia

Images: Sophie Burrows

LFW: PINGHE AW14 by Georgina Yates

After spending the last hour backstage with the PINGHE team, I was eager to see how her collection would come together on the runway. Although this is only her second solo show, designer Ping He appears astonishingly calm. Doubtless, her previous experience working for major fashion house Alexander McQueen and her five-year stint as design director for label Aftershock (one of Madonna’s favourites) has prepared her for the occasion. 

Ping He SS14 collection was characterised by a distinction between structurally designed clothing and soft, luxurious fabric and for AW14 she continues in this vein. For AW14 she works under the theme of ‘elegant resistance’, which she explores through a variety of mediums USING a palette of gold, silver, white and black, accented by bright red. The first model glides slowly down the catwalk, her languid walk contrasting with her provocative ensemble - she wears a see-through PVC flute skirt, a black fur-lined bra and golden high-top sneakers. This first look clearly demonstrates the idea of an elegant resistance with ‘water-proof', clear PVC set against a feminine, faux fur brassiere.  Following on, we see short red shift dresses in red faux-fur and tight red leather leggings teamed with chunky knitwear.

Ping He’s love of architecture can been seen in her structural PVC outerwear and leather flute-skirts.  Elegant Resistance is interpreted in a number of ways, for example,  the model’s ethereal make up is strikingly opposed to bold red outwear and their noticeably slow walk is contrasted with the striking nature of their structured garments. In my opinion, the highlight of the collection was the oversized, chunky red knit, which was combined with the PVC see-through skirt and gold plated sneakers - a look that presents a dynamic antithesis between notions of comfort and statement.

Ping He's thorough exploration of her chosen theme made for an exciting showcase, and one that indicates a bright future for her label. 

@PINGHE_Daily

bypinghe.com

Words & Images @withgeorgia

LFW AW14 Bernard Chandran by Georgina Yates

Bernard Chandran is one of Malaysia’s top fashion designers and the first non-European to win the Open European Contest for Look of the Year back in 2000. He has built a loyal client base – some of which even include members of Malaysia’s royal family, as well as international stars, such as Lady Gaga and Tori Amos. Working to clothe such a prestigious and high-powered clientele is something that has served to inspire and, to an extent, influence Bernard’s design athletics. In an interview with Idol magazine, Bernard described the central figure of his collections as ‘a confident woman who is always ahead of time. I want them to feel effortless, yet look good and feel comfortable.’ In his AW14 show we see that this notion is something that is inherent to his work.

The Barnard Chandran AW14 collection is characterised by dark leather tailoring, strong – yet undeniably feminine – silhouettes and bold block colouring. Every garment strives to be a statement piece, with flute skirted leather dresses paired with heeled, open-toe  knee-high boots. Nods to masculine tailoring featured throughout with knee-length dresses detailed with mock-pockets and lapels. His AW14 outerwear comprised of box-cut leather jackets and cape, which were often styled with cropped tight leather trousers and high-heeled ankle boots.

Noctis caught up with the esteemed designer after the show - who was an absolute delight to talk to. In our short interview, Bernard spoke animatedly about the type of woman who personifies his designs…

 Hi Bernard!  Congratulations on another amazing collection! We loved the contrast between models’ nude make-up and slick hair against the masculine inspired leather tailoring, why did you decide to make this distinction?

‘She has such powerful clothing that we wanted to use less tricks on the face, giving the models a really clean look with slicked back hair. But when you really look at the hair it is a lot of effort - effort that ultimately is made to look effortless. Everything should appear to be effortless, like she didn’t really spend much time on it – but in reality she is aware.’

 Why did you decide to use leather in many of your tailored ‘suit’ ensembles?

‘I always work with patterns and cutting. I inspire my own work, I thought “this season why don’t I do tailoring?” I though “how would I do tailoring and what would my clients like to wear?” I work with my clients personally so I understand what women would want. So, I give them the tailoring but it is an Illusion. They are not men. This is why I give the illusion of a three piece suit, this is why you see the lapels and the pockets – they are illusions of the lapels and pockets. The whole thing is about inner strength; my clients set the president and my woman’s strength lies in her awareness.’