LFW: PINGHE AW14 / by Georgina Yates

After spending the last hour backstage with the PINGHE team, I was eager to see how her collection would come together on the runway. Although this is only her second solo show, designer Ping He appears astonishingly calm. Doubtless, her previous experience working for major fashion house Alexander McQueen and her five-year stint as design director for label Aftershock (one of Madonna’s favourites) has prepared her for the occasion. 

Ping He SS14 collection was characterised by a distinction between structurally designed clothing and soft, luxurious fabric and for AW14 she continues in this vein. For AW14 she works under the theme of ‘elegant resistance’, which she explores through a variety of mediums USING a palette of gold, silver, white and black, accented by bright red. The first model glides slowly down the catwalk, her languid walk contrasting with her provocative ensemble - she wears a see-through PVC flute skirt, a black fur-lined bra and golden high-top sneakers. This first look clearly demonstrates the idea of an elegant resistance with ‘water-proof', clear PVC set against a feminine, faux fur brassiere.  Following on, we see short red shift dresses in red faux-fur and tight red leather leggings teamed with chunky knitwear.

Ping He’s love of architecture can been seen in her structural PVC outerwear and leather flute-skirts.  Elegant Resistance is interpreted in a number of ways, for example,  the model’s ethereal make up is strikingly opposed to bold red outwear and their noticeably slow walk is contrasted with the striking nature of their structured garments. In my opinion, the highlight of the collection was the oversized, chunky red knit, which was combined with the PVC see-through skirt and gold plated sneakers - a look that presents a dynamic antithesis between notions of comfort and statement.

Ping He's thorough exploration of her chosen theme made for an exciting showcase, and one that indicates a bright future for her label. 

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